tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11314935189005709292023-06-15T06:48:36.853-05:00One 72nd Fantasy FiguresA place for me to write about and post pictures of my growing collection of 1/72 fantasy miniatures. I'll also add stuff about my techniques for painting and converting them. (1:72 scale)Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-6577200242039399162013-03-28T21:33:00.001-05:002013-03-28T21:33:50.029-05:001/72 Giant Spiders Construction<center>
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I wanted a set of giant spiders to use as nuisance monsters. I was not wanting really giant bugs, but for my first set some thing about the same size as my giant rats and bats. I checked a lot of miniature sites and just could not find a set of spiders that would work as 1/72 nuisance monsters. Every set I found was just way too big. </div>
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I was about to give up and move on when I noticed some charms in the bead section of a craft store, and I wondered if the internet had any spider charms that I might use. I went to eBay and searched for pewter spider charms and I found these little fellows. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r1siExvevTc/UTnyY0hezWI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/Ue53Tj9rLa0/s1600/spiderCharm.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="277" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r1siExvevTc/UTnyY0hezWI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/Ue53Tj9rLa0/s400/spiderCharm.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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I thought a quick snip to remove the loop on its back side and I would have my spiders. I am still hoping to find a use for the spider webs. After searching for a while to find the best price I ordered 12 of the little guys. The charms survived the surgery from take them from jewelry to miniature with no complications.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01Q3FJyflZo/UTn2sbPvEJI/AAAAAAAAAPc/TJoifDxJ7GA/s1600/spider1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01Q3FJyflZo/UTn2sbPvEJI/AAAAAAAAAPc/TJoifDxJ7GA/s320/spider1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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The next step was to glue some cork to the washer with PVA/white glue. I allowed the glue to dry and then shape it into a piece of rock with an razor blade knife.<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">I took a pair of pliers and adjusted the spiders arms to give the models some variety and then glued the spiders to the cork. The last touch was to add some sand to the bare spots on the washers and I was done. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">After an about face you get the view from the figures from the other side. I think that adjusting the arms and placing them in different locations on their respective boulders has taken one figure and given it a lot of variety.</span></div>
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They are now ready to prime and paint. I will be showing pictures of the completed colony/swarm/cluster/nest and individual spiders in my next post. Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2013, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
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Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-6702232624242521912013-02-10T10:42:00.000-06:002016-10-03T17:23:22.216-05:001/72 Giant Bats Construction<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I purchased a <a href="http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/" target="_blank">Splintered Light Miniature's</a> Bat Swarm. A bat swarm comes in six basic pieces: the individual bats, a base, a rod to use as a pole, and three different sizes of bat mounting gadgets (for lack of a better term). I included a straight pin on the right as I will use them for mounting and to give a rough scale to the pieces. The set from Splintered Light is designed to make a swarm of bats, but I had different plans for these "creatures of the night". <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOXGcnFDm3k/URUv9v5PXCI/AAAAAAAAAOI/a5nrSaqxEMM/s1600/bats1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOXGcnFDm3k/URUv9v5PXCI/AAAAAAAAAOI/a5nrSaqxEMM/s1600/bats1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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I decided to base these bats individually so that I could use them as nuisance monsters with the rest of my 1/72 fantasy figures. I started by using # 10 washers and filling the empty spaces with pieces of plastic card. Except for the smaller size washer, it is the same procedure I always use when basing with washers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twLuo-F2qNI/T5BYjsCZqSI/AAAAAAAAAJk/GoTqmIf1RQc/s1600/rat.swarm.assemble+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twLuo-F2qNI/T5BYjsCZqSI/AAAAAAAAAJk/GoTqmIf1RQc/s400/rat.swarm.assemble+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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The next step was to glue some cork to the washer with PVA/white glue. I allowed the glue to dry and then shape it into a piece of rock with an razor blade knife.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_dMxLYcSf-s/URUv-IfRZkI/AAAAAAAAAOY/YRnEiFWrw2c/s1600/bats5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="130" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_dMxLYcSf-s/URUv-IfRZkI/AAAAAAAAAOY/YRnEiFWrw2c/s400/bats5.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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I then took the individual bat models and glued then to straight pins. On the underside of each figure was a spot modeled to allow it to be glued to the bat mounting gadgets. I used those places to super glue the bats to the straight pins. Luckily the heads of the straight pins were the same size as ends of the bat mounting gadgets so the models required no modification.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eahEA_XrFZE/URUv9uNn9yI/AAAAAAAAAOM/pgQg-5BbEzg/s1600/bats2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eahEA_XrFZE/URUv9uNn9yI/AAAAAAAAAOM/pgQg-5BbEzg/s400/bats2.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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After the glue had dried and the bats were fixed on their new perches, I bent their wings into various poses so they would appear to be flapping instead of soaring on thermals like buzzards of the night. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9livFfq3ayU/URUv9zzNM_I/AAAAAAAAAOc/nie2ijG_dR0/s1600/bats4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9livFfq3ayU/URUv9zzNM_I/AAAAAAAAAOc/nie2ijG_dR0/s400/bats4.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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Here is a view of the bats from above so you can see the posing from another angle.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uZzaKplRLhg/URUv9wD1DpI/AAAAAAAAAOg/WnUG5WIcg6I/s1600/bats3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uZzaKplRLhg/URUv9wD1DpI/AAAAAAAAAOg/WnUG5WIcg6I/s400/bats3.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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I finished my models by dipping the straight pins in super glue and inserting it as deeply into the cork base as I thought looked good. I then added PVA/white glue to tops of the washers and dipped them into sand to make the rocks appear to be surrounded by gravel. Below you have a a view of the completed bats from the front.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H0BX0JAHP3E/URUv-vJgJEI/AAAAAAAAAOs/sMufUyuSRSg/s1600/bats6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="93" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H0BX0JAHP3E/URUv-vJgJEI/AAAAAAAAAOs/sMufUyuSRSg/s400/bats6.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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I have to take a small break and talk about the name of these models, the "Bat Swarm". I have to say that a group of bats is not called a swarm but a colony. Except these bats are no ordinary bats, these bats are evil man eating bats that swarm all over you. I think that in the case of fantasy bats, which exist only to swarm over adventurers and devour them, you would call them a swarm. Returning back to the models, I give you the last photo of the models - the reverse view. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hlyu3Uw77vE/URUv-pBy1oI/AAAAAAAAAOo/PjhEo0RJ59Q/s1600/bats7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="101" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hlyu3Uw77vE/URUv-pBy1oI/AAAAAAAAAOo/PjhEo0RJ59Q/s400/bats7.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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They are now ready to prime and paint. I will be showing pictures of the completed colony/swarm and individual bats in my next post. Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2013, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
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Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-2356145946645109792012-05-25T00:01:00.000-05:002012-05-25T00:12:07.904-05:001/72 Sci Fi Fantasy Figures Found, and Star Wars to BootI had always thought there were only two sets of 1/72 figures designed for science fiction. Imagine my surprise when I found that Micro Machines Star Wars figures were 1/72 scale figures. I went from a world where there were only 24 sci fi figures to one with over a hundred. They are all based on major sci fi movies as well: Star Wars, Aliens, Starship Troopers, etc. The figures are pre-paints as well. The only shame is they are mostly not in production anymore. <br />
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I tried out a 30 second figure improvement by hitting two of the figures with Games Workshop Black and Brown Washes. The third figure from the left got the Black Wash and the fifth from the left got the Brown Wash.<br />
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I then spent about three minutes on each figure to add some paint highlights of orange, grey, and white. The end results of three and a half minutes of painting speak for themselves. Figure one is the Black Wash, figure three is the Brown Wash, and figures two and four are untouched pre-painted figures. <br />
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I have about 50 figures ready for the paint table, I just need to find time base them and then it is time for Star Wars fun on the game table.<br />
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As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale, as well as the Scale Picture <a href="http://www.game-werks.com/downloads/MiniScaleCard-1.jpg">(a scale picture)</a>.<br />
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Tell me in the comments which figure you like the best: black wash, brown wash, or pre-painted. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2012, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
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<br />Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-38090186093387395692012-05-22T00:09:00.003-05:002016-10-03T17:26:59.631-05:001/72 Giant Rats (Nuisance Monsters) Completed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><i><u>Name:</u> </i></b>Rat Swarm, Rat Swarms<br />
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<b><i><u>Manufacturer:</u> </i></b><a href="http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/" target="_blank">Splintered Light Miniatures</a><br />
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<b><i><u>Poses:</u> </i></b>2 poses, (the single rat figure can be repositioned to give variety)<br />
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<b><i><u>Figure material:</u> </i></b> metal<br />
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<b><i><u>Ability to Take Paint:</u></i> </b>excellent<br />
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<b><i><u>Pose Quality:</u> </i></b>it looks quite rat like and the tail and front leg can be bent to create different poses<br />
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<b><i><u>Sculpting:</u> </i></b>excellent, for such small creatures the detail is well done<br />
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<b><i><u>Mold Lines:</u> </i></b>little to none<br />
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<b><i><u>Created:</u> </i></b>2009ish<br />
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These models were fun and easy to paint. The rat swarm proper has a lot of character, and the single rats can be used as separate models, as I chose to do, or around the swarm model to make it larger and add some variety. I think these models could be used from 10mm up to 28mm, I mean a giant rat could be anything from a foot long to the size of a small car. All that is needed for fantasy figures to work well is to match the pictures in your mind.<br />
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You cannot go wrong with large numbers of easy to slay monsters to
slow down adventurers and maybe give them the creeping crude. The creeping crude will force
them to seek out Cedric the Cleric leading to even more problems and/or adventures. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hlCLcVaEQ-M/T6xja6mtFHI/AAAAAAAAAL8/7kpZUg-SZ44/s1600/RatSwarm+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hlCLcVaEQ-M/T6xja6mtFHI/AAAAAAAAAL8/7kpZUg-SZ44/s400/RatSwarm+%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale.<br />
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Next up will be articles on Splintered Lights Giant Bats, the number two batch of different nuisance monsters I have completed. <br />
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Thanks for reading... <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2012, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
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Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-39553238588279939462012-04-29T23:55:00.000-05:002012-04-29T23:59:36.567-05:00New Case to Carry My Fantasy Figures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I found this large toolbox that has three separate pieces, two large wheels, and a fold up handle to roll everything from game to game. At only thirty-five dollars a bargain price to move my figures in style.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRqy9SUuKOg/T54adAz5PjI/AAAAAAAAAKs/aOTNmOPsO9A/s1600/case.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRqy9SUuKOg/T54adAz5PjI/AAAAAAAAAKs/aOTNmOPsO9A/s400/case.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale.<br />
Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<center> </center><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2012, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-79930092012606796682012-04-28T15:32:00.001-05:002012-04-29T23:56:00.903-05:001/72 Giant Rats ConstructionI purchased three <a href="http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/" target="_blank">Splintered Light Miniature's</a> Rat Swarms. A rat swarm comes in five pieces, a big swarm of rats and 4 single rats to customize the swarm or use how ever you see fit. I decided to base these single rats individually so that I could use them as nuisance monsters with the rest of my 1/72 fantasy figures. <br />
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I started by using # 10 washers and filling the empty spaces with pieces of plastic card. Except for the smaller size washer, it is the same same procedure I always use when basing with washers.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twLuo-F2qNI/T5BYjsCZqSI/AAAAAAAAAJk/GoTqmIf1RQc/s1600/rat.swarm.assemble+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-twLuo-F2qNI/T5BYjsCZqSI/AAAAAAAAAJk/GoTqmIf1RQc/s400/rat.swarm.assemble+%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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The next step was to glue some cork to the washer with PVA/white glue. I allowed the glue to dry and then shape it into a hill with an razor blade knife.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c-nc3Gd-D2g/T5xQJV9rdMI/AAAAAAAAAKE/JU6NP89W51M/s1600/BuildingTheBases.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="92" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c-nc3Gd-D2g/T5xQJV9rdMI/AAAAAAAAAKE/JU6NP89W51M/s400/BuildingTheBases.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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I then covered the cork with sanded latex grout(fancy caulk). I simply smeared on enough to cover the mound and bring the caulk out to the edge of the washer.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fdy0zMYH5Y/T5BYj3N7qqI/AAAAAAAAAJs/FdvT7QZp3MY/s1600/rat.swarm.assemble+%282%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="122" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5fdy0zMYH5Y/T5BYj3N7qqI/AAAAAAAAAJs/FdvT7QZp3MY/s400/rat.swarm.assemble+%282%29.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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After the caulk had dried, I drilled a small hole in the mound. The individual rats came with a spike or pin sticking strait down out of their undersides and their tails were designed to be poseable. I put super glue on the pin and the hole on the base. I then forced the pin into the previously drilled hole. I then held the figure in place and adjusted the tails to add some character. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eq5sutj_jkI/T5BYkZWt81I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/WCrx9uXqMJE/s1600/rat.swarm.assemble+%283%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="85" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eq5sutj_jkI/T5BYkZWt81I/AAAAAAAAAJ0/WCrx9uXqMJE/s400/rat.swarm.assemble+%283%29.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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Here is a view of the rats from the other side so that you can see the posing of the tails from the other side.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pJkJwoervGA/T5BYkr_v-xI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/U232TBnghX4/s1600/rat.swarm.assemble+%284%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="67" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pJkJwoervGA/T5BYkr_v-xI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/U232TBnghX4/s400/rat.swarm.assemble+%284%29.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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They are now ready to prime and paint. I will be showing pictures of the completed swarm and individual rats in my next post. Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2012, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-71823813388960780922012-03-11T20:15:00.002-05:002012-03-11T22:21:25.239-05:00Paint Maintenance<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dead soldiers aka dried up paints</td></tr>
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I haven't painted anything for a year, and GW's old style paint lids were prone to drying out. I double checked all of my paints and found eight paints dried up, eights inks dried up, and three paints I had mixed dried up. I had a gift card for the GW store so I went down to replace the dried up paints. The success rate was low. GW long ago quit selling inks, and half of the dried paints are no longer being sold. They did have "Liquid Green Stuff" and I picked up a couple of the washes that replaced the inks, but it bugs me when products I like disappear.<br />
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At this point you are probably think this is just a pointless post where I will grumble about GW policies surrounding how they offer/discontinue products. I suppose I could, but instead I searched the internet and l found lots of helpful inks to help replace the missing paints. I have my shopping list:<br />
<b> </b><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"> </div><table border="1" bordercolor="#FFCC00" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="3"><tbody>
<tr align="center"> <td><b>Citadel</b></td> <td><b>Vallejo Game</b></td> <td><b>Vallejo Model</b></td> <td><b>Rackham</b></td> <td><b>Reaper Master</b></td> <td><b>Hex Code</b></td> </tr>
<tr align="center"> <td>Vile Green</td> <td>Foul Green (025)</td> <td>Park Green Flat (969)</td> <td>Antique Green (13)</td><td>N/A</td> <td>82C59C</td> </tr>
<tr align="center"> <td>Storm Blue</td> <td>Stormy Blue (018)</td> <td>Blue (925)</td> <td>Migol Blue (5)</td> <td>Ritterlich Blue (9115)</td> <td>27357E</td> </tr>
<tr> <td style="text-align: center;">Ghostly Grey</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Ghost Grey (046)</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Flat Aluminum (993)</td><td style="text-align: center;">N/A</td> <td style="text-align: center;">Ghost White (9063)</td> <td style="text-align: center;">C3C6CD</td> </tr>
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It is a hard thing, but I suppose a visit to the game store to buy replacements is in order. <br />
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<center> </center> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-68519662975407766592012-02-24T15:42:00.001-06:002012-02-24T16:00:02.331-06:00Wordle of my BlogNothing too earth shattering, but I did find it interesting to see the frequency of words on my blog. I also found it interesting that the word "fantasy" isn't in it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WG06kGfdlD8/T0gCeTqcciI/AAAAAAAAAJM/cWrnn7PXV3s/s1600/Wordle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="344" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WG06kGfdlD8/T0gCeTqcciI/AAAAAAAAAJM/cWrnn7PXV3s/s640/Wordle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wordle.net/show/wrdl/4905659/One_72nd_Fantasy_FIgures" title="Wordle: One 72nd Fantasy FIgures">Link to this Wordle for One 72nd Fantasy FIgures</a></td></tr>
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<center> </center> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-86471591242674978982011-08-31T13:14:00.000-05:002011-08-31T13:14:47.342-05:00Now for Something Completely Different...I am a Thinker!!!Thanks to everyone who is following my blog. You interest has taken me from being a Commentator to a Thinker. <br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://sorcerersskull.blogspot.com/2010/09/old-school-rpg-blogger-advancement.html">Old School RPG Blogger Advancement.</a> </div><br />
I suppose I should quit thinking about painting some figures and get some painted so I can add some new posts. Thanks to everyone who helped make this happen by following my blog, but special thanks to Andrew Beasley for being the 40th person to follow my blog. <br />
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I am sure you are all trusting me to become more expert so I can reach the next level of "Maven". :)<br />
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Thank goodness it wasn't a man with three buttocks. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-19498114067038375612011-05-01T23:57:00.001-05:002011-05-04T14:54:08.221-05:00How to Base Figures with Washers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When it comes to basing for my 1/72 figures, I prefer using washers. The washers give the finished figures added weight and stability, The washers also allow for using magnetic tape to store my figures. The only problem is gluing the vinyl figures to the metal and making them stick. I solved this problem using Loctite Activator, and plastic card to make a strong bond.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TmPC4QuPWsw/TZqTEls2T5I/AAAAAAAAAIo/Ld1dpLQhN9Q/s1600/How+I+Basing+With+Washers+%25281%2529WEB.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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<center><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">I use a 3/4 inch circular paper cutter to clip small pieces of plastic card. I clip the pieces large enough to cover the hole in the center of the washer but not so large it hangs over the edge of the washer.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<center><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I next glue the plastic card in place using super glue. Once the glue is dry it is time to glue the figures in place.<br />
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</tbody></table>I then apply Loctite Activator to the plastic card and the bottom of the figure. I allow the pieces to dry for at least a minute (that is why the activator pen above has a picture of a red stop hand with 1 minute on it). I then apply a couple of drops of super glue on the plastic card and then put the figure on top. As soon as the super glue is dried the figures are ready to finish basing. <br />
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</div>I have taken to using Ceramic Tile Caulk to add texture to my bases. I use a caulking gun to dispense a glob of the caulk onto some junk mail or other disposable stuff. I then use a toothpick or old craft knife to trowel the caulk on to the figures base. This caulk has the texture of normal tile grout, but it is flexible when it is dried since it is made of latex caulk. I also like the fact that after it has dried for 15 minutes the caulk forms a skin on the surface. At this point, you can sculpt the surface into any shape you like since the caulk below is still soft. You can use your finger tips to make it really smooth or a tooth pick to rough it up. The more I play with it the more I learn new ways to get different effects. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="303" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TbN73oAQ3Ag/TZqVi_XxAHI/AAAAAAAAAI4/UVMEHJwbe2E/s400/slottabseOnWasher.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
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<center><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></td></tr>
</tbody></table>If I have a slotta figure instead of ones with a flat base, I use the technique pictured above. I then seal up any remaining gaps with plastic card and apply Ceramic Latex Caulk.<br />
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-45282215016915206482011-03-21T21:17:00.228-05:002011-03-27T20:30:13.826-05:00How to Prime Plastic Figures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J12DGR-QyhM/TYgFPbTjxgI/AAAAAAAAAII/G4kQG3Ftxms/s1600/priming2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>I have tried several methods for priming plastic figures before I settled on this method. It is not the fastest method I have ever used to prime figures, but since I started using it in 2008, I have had zero flaking or chipping from any of the figures so primed. It relies on thin coats of flexible paint to prevent chipping and flaking. I have included copies of the unpainted figures in my photos to compare to the ones being primed. <br />
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I start by wash my figures with hot soapy water, rinse them well with hot water, and make sure they are completely dry. I then mist the figures with a light coat of white Rust-oleum Plastic Primer. The directions say to prepare new plastic by wiping it down with paint thinner, I have never bothered to do this step and it seems to work perfectly without doing it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UBau65xKxNc/TYgHnhPqL1I/AAAAAAAAAIk/3aE7krw3ExI/s1600/priming+plastic+0.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UBau65xKxNc/TYgHnhPqL1I/AAAAAAAAAIk/3aE7krw3ExI/s640/priming+plastic+0.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Enlarge the photo below to see how much paint I try to apply. The most important part of this step is to ensure the spray primer is not applied too thickly. Rust-oleum Primer if applied too thickly will still flake. Thin coats are the trick. Once the figure is dry, I take a soft toothbrush and buff the figures gently. It removes loose paint, smooths out the coat, and tests to make sure the paint that will not rub off or flake.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g_2xxN4Zk14/TYgFQREzXkI/AAAAAAAAAIU/YGaScZmEOoI/s1600/priming+plastic+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g_2xxN4Zk14/TYgFQREzXkI/AAAAAAAAAIU/YGaScZmEOoI/s640/priming+plastic+1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I then apply a thin coat of undiluted flat black latex house paint. I use just a few drops of paint per figure. I work it out into a thin coat. I use a cheap paintbrush with medium thickness plastic bristles to apply the paint, the sort of paintbrushes you give kids to do arts and crafts projects. If you look at the picture below you can see the white spray coating showing through on the figures.<span style="font-style: italic;"> </span> Again, you are trying for a thin coat of paint not complete coverage with this coat. Once dry, I give it another buffing with the toothbrush.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8hiqFwi--7o/TYgFQqBpa7I/AAAAAAAAAIY/ngA6aDOcadY/s1600/priming+plastic+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8hiqFwi--7o/TYgFQqBpa7I/AAAAAAAAAIY/ngA6aDOcadY/s640/priming+plastic+3.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I then apply one more thin coat of latex paint. You can see this thin coat of paint has gotten rid of the white undercoat that was visible. After drying, I brush down the figure with the toothbrush again.<span style="font-style: italic;"> </span>The figures are now primed and are ready to paint.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qx_v1BFmP5w/TYgFRGn4S_I/AAAAAAAAAIc/dRID35NIQ88/s1600/priming+plastic+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qx_v1BFmP5w/TYgFRGn4S_I/AAAAAAAAAIc/dRID35NIQ88/s640/priming+plastic+5.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I have one last optional step when priming my figures, I dry brush the entire figure with white paint to bring out the details to aid me in the rest of the painting progress. After dry, I will take the toothbrush to the figure one more time. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WPZzsFJMUWE/TYgFPnXWVkI/AAAAAAAAAIM/BYf3132-MD0/s1600/priming+plastic+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WPZzsFJMUWE/TYgFPnXWVkI/AAAAAAAAAIM/BYf3132-MD0/s640/priming+plastic+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>The figures are now completely primed and ready to be painted. At this point, I sometimes use a watered down paint or ink base coat color. Since that coat is translucent the shading given by the dry brushing shows though and gives nice shading effects with no more work than a normal base coat would take to apply, I will post another how to article later on this technique.<br />
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The important thing to remember about my priming technique is it is based on thin coats of paint. The spray primer bonds to the plastic, and the latex paint forms a coating that grips the spray primer while acting as a flexible skin that can move with the figure if it is bent or flexed. Thick coats of paint that cannot flex when the figure moves tend to crack and then flake off of the figure. I have been using this technique since 2008 and have yet to have any figure so painted chip or flake.<br />
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-38426376652683615452011-03-15T22:47:00.000-05:002011-05-04T15:09:00.993-05:00Now for Something Completely Different...I am a Commentator!!!I was looking around for some info to share with a young role player looking to start game mastering and instead found the Old School Level Advancement for Bloggers.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://sorcerersskull.blogspot.com/2010/09/old-school-rpg-blogger-advancement.html">Old School RPG Blogger Advancement.</a></div><br />
Thanks Trey for creating it and giving me a laugh out loud moment when I found it. I am now shooting for "Thinker". I guess I need to get thinking and generate some new content to reach my next level. :)<br />
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Thank goodness it wasn't a man with three buttocks. Thanks for reading...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-63342038155137691972011-02-15T10:28:00.140-06:002016-10-03T17:33:16.708-05:00Project Cave KrakenCave Kraken, Watcher in the Water, Cthulhu, or whatever you call it, every one needs a tentacled beasty to lie in wait for unsuspecting adventurers. I'll start by showing a picture of the completed project. As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale, as well as the Scale Picture <a href="http://www.game-werks.com/downloads/MiniScaleCard-1.jpg">(the scale picture)</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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This project was a lot of fun. It began when I saw a tube of plastic kids toys at Hobby Lobby. I found a cute pink octopus inside the tube, at least it was cute on the outside, I could sense the evil inside just waiting to be released. The picture below shows the contents of the tube and the red circle give you a glimpse of how the octopus looked before being converted to the Kraken.<br />
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I took an Exacto knife to the octopus and chopped off all of the tentacles. I then glued the body to the base. I took a small bit of tentacle and glued the small loop of tentacle in front of the main body. Next I added an armored plate from a GW Tyranid sprue and sculpted the beak. The beak worked out perfectly, it looked exactly as I pictured it in my head. I then glued some of the left over tentacles to separate bases and it was ready for the basing. I sculpted the waves on the bases out of paint-able latex caulk. I attempted to sculpt some white capping waves as the kraken and his tentacles rose from the depths, and again, I lucked out because the looked exactly as I had hoped.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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I then painted the little beasty various shades of purple and blue for the body, yellows and tans for the beak, light blues for the suckers, and green for the eyes (he just seemed to be the jealous type). The water was primed black, dry brushed white, and then painted with several different colors of diluted ink to achieve a water effect. I then touched up the white caps with some white paint. The last step was to give him a gloss coat of sealant, so he would appear to be wet<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wNJM0ub3zfg/TVoT5ZTQB8I/AAAAAAAAAIA/A7qDZ3_W9YI/s1600/A+Krake+Profiles.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wNJM0ub3zfg/TVoT5ZTQB8I/AAAAAAAAAIA/A7qDZ3_W9YI/s400/A+Krake+Profiles.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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Here is what the cave Kraken looks like on the game board when he rises from the depths of the "Well of Doom". You know the dwarfs are wondering who ordered calamari and are hoping they are not on the menu.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PStBdksd1gE/TVs54eyTreI/AAAAAAAAAIE/hmNJJZfwsXk/s1600/cave+Kraken+vs+Dwarfs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PStBdksd1gE/TVs54eyTreI/AAAAAAAAAIE/hmNJJZfwsXk/s400/cave+Kraken+vs+Dwarfs.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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It is amazing what a little time and effort can do with a humble toy. From cute to killer in nothing flat.<br />
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Questions and comments are always welcome. Thanks for reading... <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="text-align: center;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved.</td></tr>
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Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-6834972508831715422011-02-08T17:35:00.001-06:002011-02-08T17:38:00.660-06:00Minatures Scale Picture by Christopher B of the blog "A Rust Monster Ate My Sword"I use a miniature scale picture in lots of my blog entries. I think it is very handy to see how different figures match up against it. As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale, as well as the Scale Picture <a href="http://www.game-werks.com/downloads/MiniScaleCard-1.jpg">(a scale picture)</a>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzZmP-52II/AAAAAAAAAHk/iKUmMbww5VQ/s1600/Legolas+Finished+Cropped%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="306" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzZmP-52II/AAAAAAAAAHk/iKUmMbww5VQ/s400/Legolas+Finished+Cropped%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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You may one one of your own, if so, do not despair. All you need to do is to click on the Miniature Scale Picture link and you can have one of you own.<br />
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<a href="http://www.game-werks.com/downloads/MiniScaleCard-1.jpg">Miniature Scale Picture</a><br />
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The picture looks way to big when viewed in your browser window, but due to the magic of a 300 dots per inch setting hidden deep in its JPG soul, it prints out perfectly. I printed mine using Windows Paint. If you would like to visit the blog of the fellow who created this neat little gadget, click the link below. <br />
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<a href="http://rustmonsteratemysword.blogspot.com/">A Rust Monster Ate My Sword</a><br />
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Thanks Christopher B. for creating such a useful little picture. I have a laminated copy I keep in my wallet for those time when I wonder, "Will this work with scale X figures."<br />
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</span></center>Thanks for reading...<br />
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<center> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" /></a></center> <br />
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<center> Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-25598999813957733702011-02-05T23:46:00.000-06:002011-02-05T23:46:12.402-06:00Project LegolasI created my 1/72 version of Legolas in January of 2007. I was looking at the up coming Caesar Fantasy lines, that didn't come out until the end of 2007, and I just got impatient. The front and back of the completed figure can be seen below with Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> making their appearance for scale. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzb0gWc7PI/AAAAAAAAAHw/iPc8sMjaZcA/s1600/Legolas+Finished+Complete.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="216" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzb0gWc7PI/AAAAAAAAAHw/iPc8sMjaZcA/s400/Legolas+Finished+Complete.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I chose the Hat/Airfix Merry Man's body on the right because it has the best gear and a nice dynamic arrow shooting pose, but his bearded face would never do for an elf. So I used a bald head from another Merry Man like the one on the left and did a head swap. At this point you may be asking yourself , a bald elf will not work any better than a beardy one. I have to admit the logic is sound, but since I planned to sculpt on pointy ears and longish hair adding hair plugs for the bald head didn't seem to be a problem. As you can see I also added a quiver of arrows, an arm guard, and high boots, when I sculpted on his ears and hair. The end result was an acceptable elf figure.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzbz5Dh7wI/AAAAAAAAAHs/qy1qNvM0N1g/s1600/Leglas+WIP.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="117" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUzbz5Dh7wI/AAAAAAAAAHs/qy1qNvM0N1g/s400/Leglas+WIP.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I decided to post this after reading <a href="http://paulsbods.blogspot.com/2010/11/airfix-robinhood-conversions.html">Paul's Bods Blog about Airfix Robin Hood figure head swaps</a>. Thanks to Paul for the motivating me to showing off my first plastic 1/72 fantasy figure. <br />
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Thanks for reading...<br />
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<center> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" /></a></center> <br />
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<center> Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-49607418625618951792011-02-01T22:49:00.005-06:002016-10-03T17:35:32.900-05:00Project Hobbit - Phase 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I have completed priming and putting the base coat on my hobbit. So far I am happy with how he is turning out. <br />
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I started the priming with a light coat, almost just a misting, of Krylon Plastic Primer. I include this shot just to show how much spray primer I apply. I like to use light coats of paint when painting plastic figures. I find if you get the coats of paint too thick it tends to flake too easily. As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale. Also making an appearance in the blog is a Caesar Miniatures Adventurers set female fighter figure. I have replaced her sword with a war hammer and primed her with Krylon spray primer. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiHzLxJTI/AAAAAAAAAGc/XcFTh53kh6E/s1600/hobbit+krylon+primed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiHzLxJTI/AAAAAAAAAGc/XcFTh53kh6E/s400/hobbit+krylon+primed.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-style: italic;"> </span><br />
In the next picture, I have applied two coats of black latex house paint. I find it adheres well to the Krylon spray primer and the latex paint has some flex and give if the plastic figures are bent. I also take a soft bristled tooth brush and buff the figure between coats of paint. The buffing smooths the primer between coats, sort of the way you can sand primer between coats when painting a car. It also tests the bond between the primer and figure early in the painting process. I hate to finish painting a figure only to find out the primer failed to bond. <br />
<center><span style="font-style: italic;"></span></center><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZ4m7DCI/AAAAAAAAAGo/9zgKvAgMgMM/s1600/hobbit+latex+primed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZ4m7DCI/AAAAAAAAAGo/9zgKvAgMgMM/s400/hobbit+latex+primed.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I then applied a base coat. The picture below speaks for itself. I did try to paint some yellow trim on the green vest. It seemed like a good idea, but I do not really like the effect. I think I may change it when I start painting highlights and details. Even if I just leave the vest plain with no trim it should look good on the table top.<br />
<center><span style="font-style: italic;"></span></center><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZ0KzzlI/AAAAAAAAAGk/WFaPZxvmAl4/s1600/hobbit+front+base+coat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="177" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZ0KzzlI/AAAAAAAAAGk/WFaPZxvmAl4/s400/hobbit+front+base+coat.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I have included a shot of the back of the figure, to give a complete view of the base coating process. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZnv91xI/AAAAAAAAAGg/Az9AsFUXrp0/s1600/hobbit+back+base+coat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZnv91xI/AAAAAAAAAGg/Az9AsFUXrp0/s400/hobbit+back+base+coat.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUhiZ0KzzlI/AAAAAAAAAGk/WFaPZxvmAl4/s1600/hobbit+front+base+coat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div>I am looking forward to doing the detail painting and putting a protective finish on this little guy so he is ready for the table top. So it is time to quit writing and go back to painting. <br />
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Thanks for reading... <br />
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<center> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; text-align: center;"></a></center> <br />
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<center> Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-67291782283672140022011-01-27T22:03:00.001-06:002011-02-02T22:16:15.163-06:00Project Hobbit, Phase 2I broke out the green stuff and started sculpting. I started with the nickers and worked my way up. The shirt was easy, but he looked sort of plain so I added a vest. At first it looked like he was wearing a life vest, but since hobbits don't swim, I removed a bit of green stuff and reworked it. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2XHhwlDI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/34Irw1NJRyU/s1600/Hobbit+Front+without+sword.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="282" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2XHhwlDI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/34Irw1NJRyU/s400/Hobbit+Front+without+sword.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>With the mistake on adding extra green stuff on the front, I did not add any so it moved along much quicker.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2YUzo4rI/AAAAAAAAAGY/t1vVsrXEMO4/s1600/Hobbit+Back+without+sword.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2YUzo4rI/AAAAAAAAAGY/t1vVsrXEMO4/s400/Hobbit+Back+without+sword.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Next I took a straight pin and forged my little new little adventurer a 1/72 version of "Sting". If anyone would like to have me explain the "forging" process, it is easy to do and gives consistent results.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2WnXM4PI/AAAAAAAAAGM/xZ0nV5XBqJE/s1600/Hobbit+Front+with+sword.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="267" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2WnXM4PI/AAAAAAAAAGM/xZ0nV5XBqJE/s400/Hobbit+Front+with+sword.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Just to be complete I included a shot from behind with the added sword. It may be overkill, but once the camera is set up snapping extra shots is pretty easy.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2X2aTkxI/AAAAAAAAAGU/MsCeZQ-HmzQ/s1600/Hobbit+Back+with+sword.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUI2X2aTkxI/AAAAAAAAAGU/MsCeZQ-HmzQ/s400/Hobbit+Back+with+sword.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
Next to prime and paint the little guy but that will be another blog entry. Thanks for reading... <br />
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<center> Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2010, All Right Reserved. </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-50565363716452384352011-01-26T21:07:00.018-06:002016-10-03T17:37:24.112-05:00Project Hobbit, Phase 1I have recently been running the guys from our local game group in a dungeon. The old school AD&D sort just so they will know how us old grognards did it in the day. :-) I rolled up some characters and I thought I needed a halfling (hobbit) thief to get the right flavor for the party. Only one major hitch, no 1/72 hobbit are to be found. Being an inventive sort, I realized "Caesar Goblins" should be hobbit size. I came up with a plan. I head swap the goblin head for a smallish human one, sculpt on some clothing and gear, and add a short sword and Project Hobbit was born! <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUDgYlglb7I/AAAAAAAAAGA/7erpYsuTT5I/s1600/hobbit+by+goblin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUDgYlglb7I/AAAAAAAAAGA/7erpYsuTT5I/s400/hobbit+by+goblin.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></td></tr>
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One more quick size comparison with a Caesar Dwarf so that you can see if he will look Hobbitish enough when hanging out in the local dungeon with all the other cool adventurers smoking pipes. :-)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale. I have included a "Caesar Goblin" with no modifications and a the converted one. The head was taken from a Victorian era British soldier who was more then happy donate it to such a good cause. Below is the lucky trooper twin broth celebrating his brother new body.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUDie1jpD1I/AAAAAAAAAGE/_eV0BOQs3io/s1600/Hobbit+vs+brit.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/TUDie1jpD1I/AAAAAAAAAGE/_eV0BOQs3io/s400/Hobbit+vs+brit.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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I have coated the body in supper glue where the clothing and gear will be covering the noble Hobbit. I am hoping the super glue will give some purchase for the green stuff. My previous experiments with green stuff directly to vinyl have been slowed when the green stuff would not properly grip the slippery vinyl. <br />
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Next time, I hope to have the conversion finished and ready for the paint table. Wish me luck, and thanks for reading... <br />
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Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2011, All Right Reserved. </div>
Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-14164901575609920232010-05-08T12:18:00.020-05:002011-02-02T22:16:15.164-06:00Filling the Gaps in 1/72d Fantasy Figures<br><br />Since lots of races are not manufactured as 1/72d figures, it is sometimes necessary to use figures from larger of smaller scales to have models to put on the table top. Since the figures in question are "fantastical creatures" or imaginary heights of said figures are purely a matter of taste. You simple need to look at any available figures and determine if a suitable proxy exist in another scale. <br /><p><br /><p><br />The first race I used from another scale with my 1/72 figures was Skinks manufactured by Games Workshop. These figures are intended to be used as small heroic 28mm Lizardmen. They measure 14mm from the sole of the foot to eye level. I thought they looked perfect when placed next to my other 1/72d figures.<br /><p><br /><p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-Wk6xSDf-I/AAAAAAAAAFY/OlN54pgc8qo/s1600/Lizardman+Compare.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 198px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-Wk6xSDf-I/AAAAAAAAAFY/OlN54pgc8qo/s400/Lizardman+Compare.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468958652079767522" /><center><span style="font-style:italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></a><br /><p><br />This figure was easy to get on the table top quickly and cheaply, I bought him pre-painted from the local hobby shop for a quarter. I rebased him on a quarter inch washer and he was ready to go. I later modified this figure by adding a spear made from tee push pin and a shield made from a texture upholstery tack. <br /><p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-Wk6ZUO9tI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/QR47kTkKuFc/s1600/Lizardman+Compare+(1).JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 191px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-Wk6ZUO9tI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/QR47kTkKuFc/s400/Lizardman+Compare+(1).JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468958645646456530" /><center><span style="font-style:italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></a><br /><p><br />As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale. <br /><br><br />Thanks for reading...<br /><br><br /><center><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" /></a><br /><br><br />Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2010 </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-37517427795802717242010-05-08T11:36:00.015-05:002016-10-03T17:39:03.905-05:001/72 Ratmen (Skaven) Warband Completed<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-XcjzaBQmI/AAAAAAAAAFg/Za5Ld8gPra0/s1600/Ratman+Lineup.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469019830164210274" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-XcjzaBQmI/AAAAAAAAAFg/Za5Ld8gPra0/s400/Ratman+Lineup.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 254px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-XcjzaBQmI/AAAAAAAAAFg/Za5Ld8gPra0/s1600/Ratman+Lineup.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}">(Click on the image for a larger version)</a></center>
<br /><br /><b><i><u>Name:</u> </i></b> Ratmen, Druids Children Rebels<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Manufacturer:</u> </i></b> Splinter Light Miniatures<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Poses:</u> </i></b> 11 poses (more are available now, but at the time procured this was the entire line)<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Figure material:</u> </i></b> metal <br />
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excellent <br />
<br /><b><i><u>Pose Quality:</u> </i></b> lots of different armor and weapons reflect equipment Ratmen might carry as well as different roles from leader to conscript<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Sculpting:</u> </i></b> excellent, lots of sharp detal<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Mould Lines:</u> </i></b> little to none<br />
<br /><b><i><u>Figures Released:</u> </i></b> 2008 <br />
<br />I purchased these figures from Splintered Light Miniatures when I attended Historicon. These figures are well made, had almost no flash, lots of detail for a 15mm/18mm miniatures, and the service from David at Splintered Light is excellent. These figures were not manufactured as 1/72 but as 15mm/18mm figures. It would have been awesome if they were one or two millimeters taller, but they look good on the table top. Overall I am very happy with them.<br />
<br />TheRat Ogre shown will get his own article, but he is a 28mm Ratman figure from Rodrick Campbell. I knew he would make the perfect Rat Ogre for my 1/72d Ratmen and he did not disappoint. <br />
<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTM6P2uSI/AAAAAAAAAEw/D-Mh69TDtQs/s1600/102_1482.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468939172514806050" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTM6P2uSI/AAAAAAAAAEw/D-Mh69TDtQs/s400/102_1482.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 100px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTM6P2uSI/AAAAAAAAAEw/D-Mh69TDtQs/s1600/102_1482.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></a></center>
<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTNS_KMNI/AAAAAAAAAE4/AmiaA2hitCI/s1600/102_1483.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468939179155665106" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTNS_KMNI/AAAAAAAAAE4/AmiaA2hitCI/s400/102_1483.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 93px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTNS_KMNI/AAAAAAAAAE4/AmiaA2hitCI/s1600/102_1483.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></a></center>
<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTN6vDshI/AAAAAAAAAFA/bPNJCoJJZ9M/s1600/102_1484.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468939189825548818" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTN6vDshI/AAAAAAAAAFA/bPNJCoJJZ9M/s400/102_1484.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 76px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTN6vDshI/AAAAAAAAAFA/bPNJCoJJZ9M/s1600/102_1484.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></a></center>
<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTORv_krI/AAAAAAAAAFI/YaYfy5C6agU/s1600/102_1485.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5468939196003488434" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTORv_krI/AAAAAAAAAFI/YaYfy5C6agU/s400/102_1485.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 74px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/S-WTORv_krI/AAAAAAAAAFI/YaYfy5C6agU/s1600/102_1485.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span style="font-style: italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></a></center>
<br /><br />As usual, Friar Tuck <a href="http://http//www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=35">(an Airfix Robin Hood set figure)</a> and Conan <a href="http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39">(a Caesar Miniatures Adventures set figure)</a> make their appearance for scale. <br />
<br />Thanks for reading...<br />
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Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2010, All Right Reserved.</center>
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Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-15412983862989523292010-02-02T22:34:00.001-06:002011-02-02T22:36:42.070-06:00Why One72nd Fantasy?I enjoy gaming with 1/72d scale figures. 1/72d figures cover most historic eras and periods. They work well in skirmish or massed battles. The figures are cheap, durable, and readily available. If all of your gaming happens in a shared scale then all of your terrain is interchangeable, in so much as possible, between periods. The only problem was they had very few fantasy figures until recently.<br />
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Dark Hold Miniatures started a new trend coming out with a small 1/72d fantasy figure line. Their orcs looked great and got me excited about 1/72d fantasy. Then the unexpected happened and the owner of Dark Hold passed away, and I thought 1/72d fantasy would go with him. It turns out that Dark Hold was the spark that ignited a blaze of new fantasy figures in this scale. Caesar, Dark Alliance (aka Red Box), and Minikinght released twelve sets between them. Dark Hold was purchased by Rebel Minis and that line is still available ass well.<br />
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If you add in all of the 1/72d game pieces and stuff from other scales that can be repurposed, you wind up with enough figures to have a pretty rich fantasy setting. In this blog I will attempt document my growing collection and hopefully spark some interest in other so that the lines will keep growing,<br />
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Thanks for reading...<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhSRhrCbiI/AAAAAAAAAB8/3RyDIF7qLao/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240028627495710242" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhSRhrCbiI/AAAAAAAAAB8/3RyDIF7qLao/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" /></a></div><br />
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<center> </center><center>Copyright © Ron Hamilton 2010, All Right Reserved. </center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-60973781464317909622009-04-28T23:12:00.012-05:002011-01-31T13:15:40.689-06:00Close Up Photography with my Cell Phone<p><br /><p><br />I shot this photo using my cell phone. It is far from perfect, but I carry the phone all the time so it might come in handy knowing how to get a decent miniature photos on the fly with it. The phone is an LG ENV2. The ENV1 had a macro mode, why can't every cell phone come with one of those and make my life easier?<br /><p><br /><center><br /><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SffT4gWa_bI/AAAAAAAAAEo/7YfdRrU1vFI/s1600-h/cp1_0428092303-702109.jpg"><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SffT4gWa_bI/AAAAAAAAAEo/7YfdRrU1vFI/s320/cp1_0428092303-702109.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5329961651726384562" /><center><span style="font-style:italic;">(Click on the image for a larger version)</span></center></a></p><br /></center><br /><p><br />Just a quick shot of a paper viking style boat model and a couple of 1/72d figures thrown in for scale.<br /><p><br />Thanks for reading...<br /><p><br /><center><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s1600-h/WyvernBlog1.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLhLig_q1KI/AAAAAAAAABw/6dhFxgAK6to/s400/WyvernBlog1.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5240021222790190242" /></a></center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1131493518900570929.post-81777642272375157062008-08-29T10:11:00.001-05:002016-10-03T17:40:30.132-05:00How to Measuring Paint by the Drops Without the Mess<center><br />
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I like to measure paints by the drop when mixing colors. In concept this method is easy, accurate, and simple. The biggest issue is cleaning the paint from my eye droppers after each use. I had to pop the top off of the eye dropper and run water through it until all of the paint was gone. It was slow and painful doing this every time I wanted to mix colors, and with only two eye droppers, it was even worse if I was mixing more than two colors. I knew there had to be a simple and cheap solution to my problem; I just needed to keep looking until I found it.<br />
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I was sure I had the solution when I was buying a cup of coffee. What do drinking coffee and measuring paint have in common? The lowly coffee stirring straw, you know the little plastic straws you use to stir creamer and/or sugar into your drink. I thought when I saw them I would simply stick them into my paint jar, put my thumb over the top to keep the suction, and then release the pressure to dispense drops of paint. It didn't work, the paint was too thick to come out. It just sat there in the coffee stirrer laughing at me.<br />
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No way was I going to let that haughty paint laugh at me and get away with it. I was sure that a by blowing gently into the straw I would be able to get the paint to drip out. The paint did come out, but I was not able to get fine enough control to get it to come out drop by drop. It was an all or nothing sort of thing. So again my lowly coffee stirrer, although it seemed so promising, was a failure. I was about to give up when I laid one of the paint stirrers next to my eye dropper. Looking at them together I got a new idea.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLgaye4daFI/AAAAAAAAABA/PTfxapnsVP8/s1600-h/dropperBefore.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239967621031225426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLgaye4daFI/AAAAAAAAABA/PTfxapnsVP8/s400/dropperBefore.JPG" style="cursor: pointer;"></a><br />
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The coffee stirrers looked just the right size to make a disposable extension to my eye dropper. The only way to know for sure was to slide one onto my eye dropper and see if it would fit. I slid one over the end of my eye dropper, and I'll be darned if it didn't seem like the perfect size to make an extension to my eye dropper.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLgaym1WGhI/AAAAAAAAABI/Snog2mDt_Do/s1600-h/dropperAfter.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239967623165647378" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_yBlA89LzLwM/SLgaym1WGhI/AAAAAAAAABI/Snog2mDt_Do/s400/dropperAfter.JPG" style="cursor: pointer;"></a><br />
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It fit and it looked good, but could it suck up paint, hold the suction, and lastly, let me dispense it by drop? I took my new found eye dropper extension, and to my surprise, it worked!!! Now I can switch paint colors to my hearts content by simply swapping out the paint stirrer on the end of my eye dropper. Cleanup is super simple. I just drop them into my the jar where I clean my paint brushes and rinse them out in the sink at the end of the night, or I simply chuck the whole thing in the trash and put on a new one.<br />
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I now have a solution to my problem of measuring paint by the drop, and bonus points, it is free. Whenever I buy a cup of coffee I just pick up a couple of stirrers, and I am ready for my next paint session. Now if I can just find some time to put my new found paint tool to use.<br />
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Thanks for reading.<br />
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</center>Ron "La Long Carabine" Hamiltonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04618540809697327542noreply@blogger.com2